Keeps getting better

Today I went on another random walking journey around the neighborhood - what wonders one finds!  I went over to catch breakfast at this place called The House, which is not too far from my flat, but a nice walk (side note, real English muffins are pretty darn delicious).  On my way back, checking out my A-Z street guide of London I saw a little waterway nearby in this area called Canonbury (Charles Dickens wrote about it, George Orwell lived here - saw his home).  So, I decided to take a look and walk up the path on my route - wow, it was like a fairy tale.  The left is a picture of the map.

It is called the "New River" and dates back to 1609 when they built it for a fresh waterway.  Coincidentally when I was out the other night, one of the girls mentioned that I needed to go check out this restaurant the "Narrow Boat" on the water in Islington and I thought she was crazy.  But yes, there is water in Islington (aside from the canal I have mentioned before).  This was a great surprise!

London, er, I mean, Tower Bridge

It had been a couple weeks (oh my) since I had been to Borough market, and I had planned it out that I would hit it again today to get the weekly supplies.  I was fortunate enough to have met up with a Chicago friend of mine this week and she introduced me to a couple friends of hers, one whom happens to live not far from Borough.  She mentioned Druid street where they have several foodie stores popping up under the railrod tracks... well, long story short I needed to walk down by Tower Bridge to check them out, so I did.  Got to see the beautiful bridge, yet the shops were closed.  Eh, you win some you lose some.  It really was amazing - I wish I could better understand what was in the mind of men when they built such staggering, challenging works.  Who comes up with this stuff and then actually executes?  We're lucky they did.

Future visitors beware - this is a trip you will take with me.  Amazing day.  The sun was out (after days of rain) and the market was hopping, and the bridge was standing at attention, proudly accepting all the snapshots from its fans.

A COUCH!!

After the bed frame experience I had come to reality moment that (as in every blog I read before I got here) a standard couch is not going to fit into the entrance of my flat.  Not even one I could buy here.  So, my ideas started getting smaller - smaller couches that is.  I mean, this baby has to stand up right and be able to slide through a door frame.

Well, well, well.  As luck would have it, as I am on one of my wonders I come across this vintage furniture store just blocks from my place.  Kind of a little coffee shop with home made OMG cakes, but also offering up rehabbed 60's / 70's Danish furniture.  Hip.  The owner is even gay, so I know this is hip.  Anyway, I bought it.  Cute as a button, 1960's Danish refurbished leather couch.  Tricia - you'd be proud.  They delivered that day and it fits perfectly (Morris and Mack - you were my first visitors, and hopefully first friends here as well).

Man, I love weathered leather and wood.  Now ... pillows and a rug ... hmmmmmm

Getting settled in

It's been two weeks now, only one with furnishings, since I've been in my new pad.  The walks around my neighborhood have been very worthwhile, I have found.  In time when I find I am not sure what to do I just go out and start taking unknown side streets - those I have assumed are nothing but rows of homes, I guess just to find out shorter paths or to see if there is a local wine store that I must know about, and find unsuspected pubs, inns, furniture shops, and just unusual living situations.

Though it is pleasantly residential, there are also hidden gems like the canal that runs through and cute restaurants I would not have found otherwise.  Regents canal is not too far away.  However, don't get big dreams about what this is -it is kind of nasty, but promising.  There is a small waterway running through London, and in some places is quite scenic, offering cute romantic boat rides, but my section is a bit more, um, Section 8.  Nonetheless, I ventured down the pathway and low and behold there is the buzz of a happening "hidden" cafe, smoking away one heck of a grill for a BBQ.  Score.  This has running path potential.

People actually live in these I think

Almost undiscovered cafe on Regents Canal

Later in the day as I wondered about I found an amazing rose garden not far away, that looks as if it were built for reading a good book or knitting my Irish cable knit sweater.  Not far from there was a church offering yoga and having a weekend festival (think crafts, pies, kids) in September (wood spoon whittling classes anyone?  I think so!).  Anyway, it feels so much like a little small neighborhood - I'm delighted.

My Neighborhood Eden

I think the thing about London that I like today is - it is so enchanting.  Every unsuspecting corner offers up a little surprise.  Today I had moments of real excitement about getting to explore ...

The path less taken

Today is Saturday, 21st of August.  I haven't had internet access away from work since I left my temporary housing a week ago, so I had been writing my blog offline and just posted a bunch today.  Of course, lots continues to happen.  Friday all of my goods arrived, so that is a relief.  Only one small panic moment when we (the movers and I) realized the box frame from my bed wasn't going to fit in the front door.   Hmmmmm ... the back door is big enough, but there is no rear access ... it is all greenery, brick walls, and fence ... except that the neighbors above me actually overlook my patio and if we could get it through their place we could drop it over the top ... no time like the present to meet your new neighbors!!  And, it worked!  Bed in place.  Ahhh.  A good night's sleep.

Other than that, just lots of unpacking what was packed up 6 weeks ago.  Everything is falling into place.  Friday AM I had a couple hours before the movers came, and I have been noting all the garden centres (have to spell it that way now) within central London.  Lo and behold, there is one withing just a few blocks of my flat ... however, it is the other way ... the way I haven't gone yet.  Well, well, well.  Turns out there is just a little strip right around the corner with an outstanding deli, with free wi-fi (hence I am able to get online today), great coffee, olives, fresh herbs ... I could go on and on.  I will be spending a lot of money here.  Also, there is a great little hardware store, and Mediterranean restaurant which I am hoping will be good and become a standby, as well as a pub.  Not quite California Ave., but put a little skip in my step when I found this here.  Oh, and the garden centre was great.  Got a couple beautiful plants and they had those little round shrubs I was looking for.

Feeling just a bit more like I can settle in ... come visit!!

Pics of the pad - still empty

Here are some pics of the new pad ... you'll see it is 2 levels, bedrooms upstairs.  The kitchen and bath are pretty newly remodeled, and of course the patio off the back of the kitchen.  I'll post more once the goods are in.

A joint I just may be able to hang in ...

So, being that I do not even have a utensil in my new flat, I will certainly be eating out this week.  Terrible, really - well, not so much.  My neighborhood is based upon two streets which essentially form a fork in the road.  To the left, is stunning Upper street - sheik boutiques, delicious restaurants, trendy art, pretty people ... to the right is more gritty, trying to be cool places, and as you make it further up, just trying to be open places - that is where I live.  So, diving right in, I aimmed to stay in my gritty area, getting to know my hood before getting spoiled.  I found a  great produce market and what looks to be a delicious butcher and fishmonger.  Also, there is an organic grocer for all my over priced grocery needs (I have several).  I dig it.  The closest restaurant I would eat in is actually a sushi joint I tried Sunday evening.  Not too bad, but I can do better.

Heavenly.

Monday after work I went to check out a sofa (yes, I am still obsessing about furnishings, but getting closer) and wondered about until I finally caught the right bus (yes!) and hit Upper Street tonight.  It is not that I was avoiding it ... just more like prolonging the pleasure.  I knew there would be endless joy there.  Tonight I ate a French place that brought me out a bowl of mussels that I could have climbed in to and never be seen again ... HUGE!   And covered in garlicy cream.

After the episode was over I reflected back and thought ... wow, I was such an American right there.  I proceeded to eat those mussles in such a fit, there was probably garlic cream flicking all around me, the manic clinking of my fork on shell disturbing the whole place.  Not even a passing thought that someone may be watching me in disgust - who cares!! I woofed those suckers down in a land speed record (truly, only my BF Jonas can appreciate how I can kill a bowl of mussels.)  To end it all, I am having this thought as I am picking the remains out of my very last tooth.  Classy I tell ya.   I'll be so lucky if I can repeat once a week.

Now, this is a joint I just may be able to hang in.

Bike dreams ...

I already spotted the Cadellac II.  Most places from my flat are a substantial walk, and a more pleasant bike ride.  Also, I can bike to work no problem, and it would be helpful for those nights I want to stay out after dark.  More money than should rightfully be spent on a  bike, but worth every penny I am sure - the Pashley Princess.  Made in England, vintage style frame, leather seat, huge wicker market worthy basket ... if I could only manage to not get it stolen this baby would surely last me until my tired old knees couldn't pedal anymore ... and what a souveneirre!
Still thinking it over ... could get several pairs of good walking shoes for this price!

I "heart" the 38

So, this weekend it finally hit me-  there is a LOT of walking in this city if a) you have no car b) are ambitious to see everything and c) actually think it is a good idea to walk places that most people think you're out of your mind for.  Saturday after lugging my luggage (ah, now I know where they got the name) to my new spot I decided I must purchase at least a few new plants to reward myself for the ambitious cleaning.  Vision: mini bright yellow/green evergreens for the front living room window, small round almost bonsai cut shrubs for the back window, and some small micro white flowers for in between those.  I have to pace myself - I can't carry even a fraction of what I want to buy, so it seems several bouts of flower purchasing will be in my near future (yes!).

Off I went (yes, deciding to walk a distance I beleive most would have some 5 minute bus ride to cover) to the Columbia Street market (one place that has been repeated, so good sign).  It was about 20 mins, but not entirely a delightful walk through Hoxton.  I passed by the canel (which may be future running path), through a lot of residential that would probably qualify for lower income, and then finally at an empty street market (Hoxton St??).  Anyway, nice to know it is not too far to the flower market, and if I had a bike (ah, the bike fantasies begin) I could get there in no time.

So, no denying, this place is a madhouse - a nice, courteous madhouse, but still a madhouse. So, I walk up, then back, then up again, then back.  I spotted the evergreens - they are some sort of lemon scented fir - so cute and lemony!  Also, encountered this Heather that was white and they said would flower all the way through February - score!  Finally, a last spot on some micro-leaved ground cover that I actually think would look stunning in one of my pots as an accent (not planned for this trip, but no eye on the bonsais so could carry).

This was actually growing wild on the walk over.

The plants there are very reasonable, and the quality is pretty amazing.  I saw these New Guinnea impatients that were spectacular but when I asked if I could pick the ones I wanted this dude said no - really?  Ugh, downturn in day begins.  I am pretty starving by this point and the delicious Italian cafe is packed so I start walking, and walking, and walking, and walking, and OMG I ... can't ... walk ... any ... more.  Got a little "turned around".  Finally just hailed a cab, as I knew he could get me there, and in under 10 mins.  So, back to the main point of this story -  I have been trying to figure out the bus system a little bit.  The 38 is my friend.  Almost door to door to the office and runs up and down the main drag.  However, there are like 5 buses that pass by my street, I just don't have them remembered.  I thought I could encounter a bus station somewhere on the way home. I didn't.  I will learn this!!!

I'm in!

OK!! Finally got the official keys (skeleton keys?  really?  they still use those?).  It's rad.  Here in London you have to have some sort of assessor come and literally document every paint chip, dark mark, loose screw, burnt lightbulb, spider web (not being sarcastic) ... in the place so they can charge if anything differs upon your leaving.  This took almost 3 hours.  Anyway, this moving in thing certainly is full of cultural differences.  There is no repainting here - so a few walls are less than desirably clean, but not intolerable.  On the up side (I think) nobody told me who to pay rent to either, so I think it is free.  That Friday night I went for drinks with the coworkers, and then early to rise to get on over to pick up my keys, wonder around the new hood a bit (found a cute little antique market, breakfast joint, and knitting shop!!), stop over at the local hardware shop for some essentials and got to cleaning up that garden!

Fortunately there was a hose, some gloves, a broom, and a dustpan already there.  However, there was also a serious amount of animalia - slugs!  worms! centipedes! a wierd buzzing giant that I can only interpret as an under-developed beetle or cicada in some 5th year of its 17 underground - seriously though, lifting up pots that looked to have been sitting for years with inches of dead leaves and pulling out dead plants, I uncovered some freaky creatures.  I screamed about 5 times and will never eat escargot again (anyone any ideas how to combat a slug problem??)

Cute?  No.  Tasty?  Some think.  Creepy?  Yes!

After 6 hours, it looks beautiful and I now feel I can sit and enjoy a coffee outside without wondering what is watching me from behind that pot.  Now to get some flowers and a seat to sit in!

East End Markets

This AM I got up nice and early to get a head start on the tri-fecta of East End markets.  There is a series of markets in East London that I figured I could conquer in one day, at least enough to get an overview of everything and see where I would come back to and spend some more time another day.

So, I decided to walk over to the East end, which was quite uneventful - very financial district like and dead on an early Sunday AM.  I started with Petticoat market.  This is touted as a cheap clothing market and that it is - think swap-o-rama - packs of socks, $10 business suits.  Didn't take me long to buzz it and I now know I don't need to go back.

Columbia Road Flower Market

Next on the agenda was the Columbia Road Flower market.  I had even noted this one while still back in the states.  Of course, being a flower market it is beautiful and there are cute shops along the street as well;  this would make a nice morning any time.  Tons of cut flowers and plenty for landscaping.  I stopped at a cute Italian eatery for a cappuccino and some eggs with prosciutto.  Delicious - they had this rosemary bread - man, sooo good.  Also made a purchase of these really cute ceramic mushrooms.  I can see myself stopping back over there once I have a vision for the back yard (and when my sis-in-law visits).  Just need to figure out how to transport goods without a car.

Brazilian snacks

Brick Street vendors

Started wondering south, cutting left and right (since it seems there are very few through streets in this city), and as luck would have it I ended up on Brick Street, which is in itself very market like.  Saw a place that looked popular - I think it was called the It Market, but not sure (for future reference corner of Brick and Hanbury).  It was pretty cool - I think the stuff there was most interesting at least.  Lots of cheap clothing still (but now think fashionable - all the young girls going nuts for this stuff), but also artsy jewelry and some very unique food.  There is a lot of middle eastern food - huge cast iron pans full of bubbling spicy sauces.  Wasn't adventurous enough to try them this time, but will in the future.  This area is in the heart of the Bengali community, so that influence is seen in the street vendors.  I just so happened to find the lone Brazilian selling "salgados" so I opted for a "cochina" instead.

Entrance to Spitalfield's indoor market

Then finally, I made it over to Spitalfield's market.  This one is certainly most popular, the biggest and most modern, and it is also surrounded by more boutiquey shops.  I honestly thought this was going to have more antiques, but I was wrong.  I think the antiques are on a different day.  Need to look that up.  Any way, more clothes, scarves, food, jewelry, touristy junk.  I walked round and round until my legs were sore.  Opted to take the tube back home.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese

Finally did the pub visit ... and a fine one I chose indeed.  Coincidentally this place is quite near to my temp housing, so came up quickly on a yelp search - and being named after cheese who could resist.

The facts:  There has been a pub at this location since 1538 ...  rebuilt shortly after the Great Fire of 1666.  Some of the interior wood paneling is nineteenth century, some older, perhaps original. The vaulted cellars are thought to belong to a 13th century Carmelite Monastery which once occupied the site. There are several famous literary figures associated with the place.  Charles Dickens had been known to use the establishment frequently, and due to the pub's gloomy charm it is easy to imagine that Dickens modelled some of his darker characters there. The Cheshire Cheese Pub is famously alluded to in Dickens's A Tale of Two Cities.


So gloomy - check, humid - check (I was sopping wet by the time I go there), lots of small cavernous rooms with minimal lighting - check, and an infamously low stairwell that in just one passing of a group of people, three smacked their head - check, check, check.  Had a brew and fish & chips and finished up my quite literary book I was reading - did it right!

Borough Market ... this time it was open!!

So, I think everyone gets the jist of the Borough market, but there are just so many wonderful sights I wanted to post a few more photos.  The prawn above was pretty impressive - never saw them with their legs still on.  Wow.  I've been searching a bit for places to buy plants since my new flat has a patio - there was a great shop at the market.  Anyway, I just had to get the bratwurst again - not because there aren't other good things, but this thing is good!

Check out the meringues (up left)

Mushrooms - front ones are blue!

Got some olives from here!

Great plants

Friday nights ...

I end up in a little bit of a stupor on Fridays ... not sure quite what to do with myself.  Feels I should be going out, but I don't really want to go to the clubs and I shouldn't stay out late alone and I don't yet know anyone to go to the pub with yet ... ended up with conveyor belt sushi.  Somewhat depressing.  I've been craving good sushi, which I have yet to find.  Mental note - when in permanent space sign up for yoga or jogging club or cooking classes or something on Fridays!!!

Work, work, work, work

Looking North from Covent Garden to Soho

Got one full work week under my belt.  Several accomplishments this week include getting a semi-permanent location that is in a corner and quiet (decent view, though precisely on the path to the loo), actually getting a monitor, keyboard, and mouse (though I have not made friends with the IT dept in the process), meeting with my first set of clients (UK industry researchers that are quite nice and like Nielsen (??? somewhat disorientating)), finding a pleasurable routine of a "double mach" at Monmouth coffee, starting to understand at least 50% of the lingo, and last but not least realizing to look right, not left as I cross the street in front of the office.

Not bad ...  I just may be able to handle this.

Three weeks in ...

and it feels a bit like this ...  you're walking down an unfamiliar path in the forest ... the trees have delicate leaves, the warm sun is filtering through, the path is soft, you're happy to just keep walking ... it is as if you sense there is something just beyond your point of vision that is amazing.  As you progress it occurs to you that you've been walking for quite a while and haven't looked back.  Just at that moment it starts to darken a bit, a chilled breeze begins to blow.  You look back.  You look forward.  Behind looks sunny and warm.  Ahead looks mysterious and unpredictable.  You look back.  You look ahead.  You decide you must see what is just beyond your point of vision and surge ahead ...

Serendipidous

This entire journey to date has felt very serendipitous - you know, when everything just seems to fall in place and be part of a bigger plan?  I have found the best thing I can do is to just take my hands off the wheel, stop trying to push things a certain way and they end up much better than I would have ever planned.

Last night's dinner was pleasant - cute gastropub with a delicious menu.  I opted for Rose and some beef ragu orrechiette (Jonas was speaking about Cheppe's red sauce and put me in the mood).  Note, I did see them mention to try a place called Great Queen Street on their chalk board ... to be referenced later.

Sunday AM, first of August, I headed off to the Borough market after a very comfy sleep in, and lo and behold it is closed on Sundays (what??).  First lesson learned today - go to the fruit and veg markets Saturday AM.  Sooo ... plan B became wondering about, walking eventually in the direction of home.  This market just happens to be at the London Bridge tube stop, so I knew that had to be near by. Second lesson learned today:  the London bridge is NOT the bridge that is infamous; that is actually the Tower Bridge.  So, the London Bridge is not a destination (and it is not falling down, but it almost looks to be), but seemed a noteworthy location to ask someone to take my pic..

As I wondered around the small streets in Borough - ta dah!!!  I came across this huge wine store, and so I did end up lugging two bottles of New Zealand Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc around the rest of the afternoon.  

I crossed over the bridge, walking towards home, right past St. Paul's Cathedral and then the Courts of Justice (not planned).  Massive structures that seem beyond imagination - the sculptures and detail are almost incomprehensible.

It's about at this point that I realize that I actually walked a bit west of where I needed to be, so since I was almost at Covent Garden and needed to eat I continued just a bit more to get there. On Sunday Covent Garden is hopping.  Lots of tourists shopping, and they have musicians and street acts.

Did a lap or two then decided I needed to figure out where I was going to get the groceries for the week.  Started to head back toward home and saw this restaurant catch my eye ... it didn't have a name.  I did a double take, and decided to go check out the menu.  Another serendipidous moment, but it just happened to be the Great Queen Street place I read about online and then saw recommended last night.  Weird.  Of course, I was destined to eat there and had to have a seat out front.  Had a pleasant salad, cured trout, and a Stiegl beer.  Delicious, but I need to get some more practice on English foodie words, as there were several items on the menu I had no idea what they were, and given the English's propensity towards unusual meat items, I kept it simple.

Final serendipitous moment for the day?  I decided to find the nearest Whole Foods to get my weekly ration, walked over a bit, and as I am picking through the fruit I see my coworker walking out front!  In all of London!  Guess that is my sign that tomorrow ... the real world begins.