Sunday, July 22, 2012

Bliss ... a.k.a. Provence

I liken a stay in the Luberon valley to ecstatic moments on repeat (for one, see side photo).

Last weekend, four girlfriends and I stayed in a stone cottage in the small town of Viens, East of Apt in the countryside of Provence (complete with a pool, vegetable garden, and view of distant lavender fields).  The goal:  local markets, sun, wine, dinner, repeat.  Mission accomplished and then some!

The food market in the town of Lourmarin, noted as being the best in the area, was the destination Friday AM.  The sun was shining, the sky was blue, and the stalls were full of French linens, shopping baskets, salamis, cheese, bread, fabrics, wonderfully fresh local fruits and vegetables.

We all gathered whatever we fancied (I did get that French market basket I had been pining for) and slowly wondered the town before settling in for a lovely lunch and a bottle of Rose.

The old towns in this area are all, for lack of a better word, quaint.  With their faded pastel facades, worn shutters, and draping vines ... the French Provincial "look" is in raw form, and it is gorgeous.

After having a delicious lavender and honey ice cream, we set off on the winding drive through the grapevine covered hills back for the house to enjoy the sun by the pool and harvest the garden for dinner.

Eggplant, zucchini flowers, tomatoes, and fresh chard were all available and we took advantage of it!  Angela made roasted eggplant stuffed with Toulouse sausage and fresh tomato sauce; I made tomato salad, fresh greens, and fried up the zucchini flowers.  Of course, local reds from the Luberon valley were the perfect accompaniment.  It was a feast!!

Saturday morning we set off in search of the local baker, known for some of the best croissants around.  Boy, we weren't disappointed.  The little shop still had a fire inside a large brick oven where all the breads were made.  The chocolate filled croissant was amazing, and just the first of carbohydrate loaded day.

We carried on into the larger town of Apt, which has its weekly market on Saturday, and pushed through quickly to get some meat to grill for dinner.  I just may have bought some adorable linen curtains for the living room.

For the second half of the day some of the girls decided to wash off some work week stress by the pool, while Pam and I went in search of the lavender fields up near the town of Gordes and the Senanque Abby.

The remaining afternoon couldn't have been scripted better, and there were moments of pure bliss that aren't often experienced in life.  The drive was gorgeous, up and down the foot hills of the valley, crossing through small towns with patches of lavender fields between.  Gordes is picture perfect, perched on the hill, and we stopped to browse art galleries and wine shops after our visit to the Abbey.

The Senanque abbey is probably the most photographed site for lavender tourists and was stunning, both from above where you drive in and up close.  It is an active religious site where monks live today and can be seen working in the lavender fields.


As if the day couldn't get any better, on our way back home we came across the town St. Saturnin d' Apt which was having a flea market!!!  No choice, but to extend our day out a bit longer and wonder through this great fortune.  If only ... if only I had endless cash and if only I had a means to transfer back massive quantities of furniture (i.e. old wood farm tables, wrought iron day beds), old wine making supplies, fabrics ... ugh, there were so many dreamy items here.


But alas, I had niether and was over-joyed just having the memory of being at the best French Provincial flea market, perched on a hill with a stunning view of the countryside.  Ahhhh ... now for that glass of Rose.


A couple more hours in the sun, and we began our second evening feast. More goods from the garden, cheese, salami, olives, spicy anchovies and garlic, fig and goat cheese salad, and of course the steak on the grill (which required a lesson from the groundskeeper - "put sticks on grill, fire, voila").


Finally, our lazy Sunday, absorbing the last hours of sun and eating everything that remained in the fridge (that ham and cheese croissant was awesome!!).  We begrudgedly packed our belongings and went on our way back towards Marseilles to catch our flight.  The drive was nerve-racking.  For quite some time you are perched on the edge of the mountains, with shear drop offs at your side and no line of sight around hairpin turns.  Grip tight ... gulp.  The ladies were quite silent (probably praying for their lives).


An exhilarating experience, that rewarded us with a picture-perfect field of sunflowers on the other side of the mountain (interesting fact:  many artists, such as Vincent Van Gogh's sunflower paintings were inspired by the beauty of this region).


Though this post accounts most of our doings, the real joy of this trip was the time with the girls ... laughing, hugging, sharing the kitchen, and praising life's bounty ... bliss.


<< Long slide show on this one!! >>

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