I just downloaded 355 pictures from my trip to Barcelona - a tell tale sign that there was a LOT of eye candy in that city! Last week there was a global convention for those that supply the mobile industry (think phones, tablets, wireless technology, app venders ... eight football arena sized halls of it), and I got to attend on behalf of Nielsen (we're trying to measure what you do on your device!).
Being that I had yet to visit this favourite city of many, I made a long weekend of it to see what the city had to offer. Work has been quite busy, so I did not have much time to do the research I typically do before visiting a new place in order to assure nothing is missed. Fortunately I made do.
I did get in a quick Google search of "food markets Barcelona" and found the grand-mack-daddy of them all. And, I did scan TripAdvisor for the best tapas restaurants. Armed with that knowledge, I made my way Friday evening to "Bar Celta". A quick and easy fried tapas kind of joint near the sea that is also a pulperia (or restaurant that specializes in octopus). Gross to some, a special delight to others ... I ate an entire plateful sprinkled with parprika, along with large plate of pimentos de padron (flash-fried, loads of salt). And, they put a bottle of chilled, local white wine in front of you and you just pay for how much you drink out of it. Bliss.
Saturday was designed to wander the Bari Gotic and Las Ramblas - the old heart of the city and main drag which runs down the middle. The hotel was a metro ride form the centre, so I am now an expert on one more city's public transport system. The Bari is exactly what you want to find when you travel to a European city ... little winding alley ways, lined with shuttered balconies holding laundry, ferns, and local flags. Main stream shops are interspersed with local speciality shops, and fortunately many old businesses are still in tact.
By mid-day we made our way to the Mercat Lo Boqueria, aka Heaven on Earth. This foodie haven provides a solid challenge to my beloved Borough market in London for best in the world. It seems every kind of anything edible the great Earth provides is under this roof - every possible type of fruit, veg, spice, cheese, fish, and meat ... ohhh, the jamon! Catalunya is the home to Iberica ham ... its not cheap, but oh is it delicious. Jamon in a cone! After strolling each and every lane, eating along the way, we stopped to take a load off at a little tapas bar in the market. I had some delicious anchovies with the local Estrella beer. The only reason I could walk out of there was because I knew I would be back before the end of the trip.
From there we continued on our wondering way, seeing the Arc di Triomf (its not only Paris that has one!) with a flock of parrots feeding in front, a darling little shoe shop with every colour imaginable, antique shops with old food tins, and a stop off for a devilish hot chocolate (which was more akin to molten chocolate sauce you'd pour on a sundae, eaten with a little spoon).
For dinner we went to La Paradeta on a recommendation from a friend. This counter-service restaurant sure was popular, indicated by the line of locals winding down the street waiting to get in. It works like this ... counter is overflowing with ice and the freshest of seafood. You get to the counter and order (in Catalan) which items you want, the number of grams, and either grilled or fried. You grab a number and when you hear it called out (also in Catalan) you go to the window and pick it up. No fluff, just grilled squid, tuna, prawns, and I did have to try the razor clams (first time, and they are good). After a stop off for an after dinner glass of local red, and perhaps a couple tapas it was off to bed.
Sunday was planned to be the more cultural day focused on seeing Gaudi's architectual masterpieces sprinkled throughout Barcelona. First, to Sagrada Familia, which left me with one headline - this guy is certifiable. Nuts. Pure genius. The mathematical design concepts he had to discover to build a structure like this, combined with his awesome abiilty to integrate design from nature and inability to say "when" made for some simply unbelievable results. I do have to say, I loved the primary coloured stained glass windows, but the church itself is simply just too "Gaudi".
On our way over to some of his houses, we passed by a xurreria, or as it should be known, the place that makes best dang churro anywhere, ever. Thick, hot, filled with nutella, served in a paper cone from a guy whose been in business for more than 60 years ... fried dough will never go out of style.
Hmmm ... what else was notable ... lunch! Another highly recommended tapas spot Cerveceria Catalana, which served endless varieties of montaditos, or little slices of bread with a topper, usually tomatoes, fish, cheese, and also two key plates - a mountain of french-fried potatoes topped with tomato sauce and a fried egg (everyone was getting it, so of course we had to try it!) and also a plate of grilled green onions. Now, these onions, known as calcots, are not your every day onion (at least that is what this article says). We had to watch others around us to figure out how to eat them ... which is to peel off the outer grilled skins and dredge the soft gooey center into tomato sauce. Combined with a pitcher of sweet sangria, this was classic Catalonia lunch. After a stroll along the coast and through the little Barceloneta neighborhood, it was back to the hotel to just take it easy ... no need to eat dinner that night!
After spending two days and nights at the conference, I had some time on the final day before heading off to the airport to knock out a few more places. As if the weekend weren't enough, I was astounded to find many more foodie delights. First stop was Casa Gispert. This little dried food shop was been roasting nuts since the mid-19th century. They had the old roaster in back going when I was there ... the lighting from the flames, the aroma of almonds, and the historic shelves lined with dreamy delights was surreal. This is where I picked up my paella rice.
Making my way to another food market, Mercat Santa Catarina, I came across an old pastry shop with these crunchy, chocolate and peanut covered thingies (and its making me crazy because I didn't get the name of them) and of course had to stop for a couple since they were so unique. This market was quite nice as well, with meat/cheese stalls dreams are made of. I wandered a bit and found a little shop selling paella pans, so that souvenier was a reality.
Winding my way across town, stopping at La Boqueria market for one last mental hug and a toast with a glass of local Cava (I learned that Cava, Spain's answer to France's Champagne and Italy's Proseco, is from quite close to Barcelona), I made it over to the Parallel area of town for the grand finale meal at Quimet i Quimet. As chance would have it in a town like Barcelona, I walked past this amazing old bakery, serving bunyols, small little donut-hole like creations served in Barcelona only during the season of lent. Picked up a few of those babies and tucked them into my bag for a snack on the plane.
Anyway, in a less touristy part of town, this small little tapas counter (no seats) was epic. I did read about it online, and after seeing it in a gastronomy book I bought while in town, I had to make it there. Not much bigger than my kitchen, every bit of wall space from floor to ceiling is covered with wine and food products. They had some wicked montaditos, like salmon with truffled honey, shrimp dotted with caviar and creme freche, and the closer ... foie gras speckled with black volcanic salt. Ta dah!!!
I have been on a veg and fruit diet for three days now! Barcelona ... one of the few cities I would make a repeat visit to. Next time, in the warm weather ... throw in visits to the beach and I may never leave!
Being that I had yet to visit this favourite city of many, I made a long weekend of it to see what the city had to offer. Work has been quite busy, so I did not have much time to do the research I typically do before visiting a new place in order to assure nothing is missed. Fortunately I made do.
By mid-day we made our way to the Mercat Lo Boqueria, aka Heaven on Earth. This foodie haven provides a solid challenge to my beloved Borough market in London for best in the world. It seems every kind of anything edible the great Earth provides is under this roof - every possible type of fruit, veg, spice, cheese, fish, and meat ... ohhh, the jamon! Catalunya is the home to Iberica ham ... its not cheap, but oh is it delicious. Jamon in a cone! After strolling each and every lane, eating along the way, we stopped to take a load off at a little tapas bar in the market. I had some delicious anchovies with the local Estrella beer. The only reason I could walk out of there was because I knew I would be back before the end of the trip.
Sunday was planned to be the more cultural day focused on seeing Gaudi's architectual masterpieces sprinkled throughout Barcelona. First, to Sagrada Familia, which left me with one headline - this guy is certifiable. Nuts. Pure genius. The mathematical design concepts he had to discover to build a structure like this, combined with his awesome abiilty to integrate design from nature and inability to say "when" made for some simply unbelievable results. I do have to say, I loved the primary coloured stained glass windows, but the church itself is simply just too "Gaudi". 
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