Sunday, October 21, 2012

Roma ...

Unexpected fortune ... a global internet measurement conference in Rome - a city that deserves to be high on any traveller's list, but lacking beaches and a wine district within walking distance, it managed to miss my priority list over the past two years.

Yet, there I was with little time to prepare for the trip, more freaked out about what to wear to a "black tie optional Gala Dinner" and assuring I had an iPad on hand to at least give off the perception I was with it, er um, technically speaking.

Nonetheless, I arrived Monday with some time later in the evening to venture off ... I grabbed a ride and proceeded to walk towards the Trevi fountain.  As I rounded the corner I let out a "whoa" at its size and crystal blue waters.  Gorgeous.  {Curse my camera for not producing clear photos on this trip!!}

I had planned to walk to the Colosseum, which was an aggressive plan considering the distance and the time.  On my way, I did wonder pass the original Peroni bar (had to stop in for a halfer) and veered myself through tiny alleys, speckled with little shops and cafes gazing up at the shuttered balconies with draping ivies.  I love that bit about Europe!

Much to my fears, as I made it out into the vast open space where the ruins lie in front of the Colosseum, the skies opened up ... and not for a little bit.  As I ran for cover in what can only be described as Biblical rains, I caught one eye of the Colosseum, but more so witnessed several tourists' umbrellas being blown into the stratosphere from the winds.  As I leaned against the wall, my skinny jeans were saturated and my boots were overflowing with water ... one of those moments when you pause and think "how in the world did I end up here?"  I felt as big as an ant ... a very wet ant.

Unwillingly to sacrifice my only free night in Rome, I made a darting beeline for the taxi line, dove head first into the next in line and asked the driver to take me to the best vinoteca he knew of.  Deal?  Deal.  As we drove, I got my wits about me and asked if he knew of Piazza Navona (that is where, in my perfect evening, I was to end up for dinner), and he responded with a grin, "well, that is where I am taking you".  Serendipity calibrated.

By the time we arrived, the rains had slowed and again I was free to wonder about the piazza, sloshing in my boots and snapping pictures of the fountains.  I found my way to a local spot for some dinner and wine and to off course dry out a bit.

The next AM I had a couple hours before the meetings began, so I arose bright and early and hit the street to see the Campo di Fiori, or flower market.  Of course I had to find the local food market!!  One booth had the most artistic, dreamy display of fall produce and on the perimeter a salami shop to end all hunting ... the best.  Truffle salami in the bag - done, and done.

I grabbed a cafe and a croissant as any Italian would do, and made my way towards the Vatican City.  It is a disgrace that I only had two hours to spend, as in reality I could have spent that long in one room, but when you have a limited amount of time in Rome, you make the best of it.  I rushed my way through the Vatican, room after room, past sculptures and tapestries that seemed impossible, my brain can not wrap around their significance   The world's most expressive writers could not come close to doing it justice in words, so I will not try.  It's out of this world.  The hall of maps ... I want to go back there (not ironically, the most scientific part).

The conference was stimulating and rejuvenating, full of bright innovators from around the globe.  The gala dinner went fine ... we had cocktails on top of the Spanish Steps and the event in a beautiful ballroom. The post-dinner social was around from the Pantheon  so I got to check that off my list via that route.  The second evening's dinner was in the most beautiful piazza I have yet to see, with very old buildings dripping in ivy and ancient fire-burning sconces, following a very educational walk around the Jewish Ghetto of Rome. Leaders from Facebook, Google, whah, whah, whah whah ... back to the important stuff.

Because the torrential rain shower cut short my visit to the Colosseum, I was somewhat obsessing about it and decided to cut out an hour early on my way back to the airport to catch a glimpse. Fortunately the agenda permitted, and alas I crossed off the major sites in Rome.

However ... don't anyone be fooled.  I barely scratched the surface of what lies beneath.  Rome is an aesthetically amazing place, with ancient sculptures in the squares of seemingly insignificant complexes, piles of buildings with stairways designed by Michaelangelo, and towering fountains behind walls most will not see, with hundreds of pieces of art hanging in unassuming museums.  Rome is deserving of much more time than I was allowed to offer ... and I barely even spoke of the foooooood!!

<< Slide show!!  >>

Saturday, October 20, 2012

Food: Business or Pleasure?

This week I happened to catch a pretty bad cold, possibly a flu.  You know, the one you feel coming on because your back and neck become insensibly painful, your chest feels like someone has a 2 ton weight on it, and you can't seem to find any energy.  By day two, you're completely delirious ... cold sweats, dizziness, nausea, and a throat swollen nearly shut.  That's it.

Early in the stages of day one I go on full frontal attack, the "you can't beat me" attitude:  Vitamin C tablets, herbal teas, hot bath, (thanks to the English) hot water bottle in the bed, and physically horizontal as soon as possible.

Day two, after fifteen hours of sweaty, sleep full of trippy dreams I wake to scan Pinterest for the best of the net's soup recipes.  Despite my urges during my "healthy" days (cheesy broccoli, crispy French onion, creamy mushroom), when I am ill I crave brothy, vegetable heavy soups that have little dairy or fat.  So, I choose Roasted Corn Chowder (recipe here), determine I have enough energy to make it to the market for the ingredients (fresh air seems like a good idea), and pull myself out of bed.

As I went through my standard routine of hitting my deli for a simple breakfast I chose to get a fresh mint tea instead of a latte and grab an organic mandarin orange in place of an almond croissant.  Tummy just doesn't seem like it can handle my normal weekend temptations.

For anyone who knows me even a little bit, they will be familiar with my love affair with the Borough market.  Yet, today, I couldn't even eat!  Now is when I begin to pray this sickness will soon pass.  I grab all the ingredients I need, try consciously not to breath or touch anyone, and make my way back home.

And as I begin to make my soup, I think, "Wow.  This is how we are supposed to eat every day, not just when we are sick".  Citrus, teas, vegetables, low fat ... so, I consider why I don't.  I am very conscious of what I eat ... and the answer is simple:  the food we choose is a balance of business and pleasure.  Yes, it is to sustain our bodies with with nutrients we need to move about for as long as possible, but it is also about pleasure - a reward for a job well done, a privilege for success, a celebration.

There are just some food categories bring about a drug-induced sense of pleasure:  Prosciutto (i.e.bacon, salami, mortadella), Brie (or Mozzarella  Parmessan, Cheddar), Wine, French bread, Creams (sour, cheese, freche), Steak ... we all can make our own list.  And this is where balance comes in.

We all know to chose a carrot over cake, but the epiphany here is that our body is brilliant - that during illness the little voice inside starts screaming ... "Orange Juice!" ...  "Cheese Ick!" ... "Hot tea!".  If ever we didn't believe our body tells us what it needs, in times of sickness it is forcefully evident.  I for one am going to listen more closely when I am fortunate enough to be well; and be sure not to tip the balance too much to the side of pleasure (hope 51:49 works!).